Longren Antarctic Newsletter #01 - 24.10.2022
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Dearest people,

Welcome back to the newsletter, I hope you all
are well. This marks the first letter I am
sending from the ice. I arrived a week ago and
have started settling in well here.

As an outline of how these letters will be
written, I'll be choosing a theme for each one
and providing a description from my perspective. 
Towards the end of each letter, I'll give a short 
update on the latest in what I am personally 
doing. This week's theme will be: general 
location and structure of life in the Antarctic.

stations.png
The year-round Antarctic stations. Going down 
heads to New Zealand, while the peninsula on
the left leads to South America. (Wikipedia)

A majority of information will be centered on
my location; McMurdo Station, the most populated
station in Antarctica, is run by the United 
States Antarctic Program (USAP), which is funded
by the National Science Foundation (NSF). The 
entire purpose of the USAP is to support 
scientific research on the continent.

McMurdo.png
McMurdo Station and Observation Hill. (N. Klein)

Location and environment
Located at 77°S, McMurdo is roughly 2/3rds of 
the distance from New Zealand to the South Pole.
This leads to quite extreme weather here 
(the current temperature is -22°C/-8°F with a 
wind chill of -35°C/-31°F). However, this barely
compares to weather at the South Pole Station 
(their current temperature is -55°C/-67°F with a
wind chill of -72°C/-97°F).

ScottBase.JPG
Scott Base and Mt. Erebus, the southernmost
active volcano in the world. (P. Wannamaker)

Conservation of the environment in polar regions
is an important challenge. More than 50% of the 
waste from the station is recycled, with all 
food waste being shipped cooled back to the USA.
Water is produced by converting sea water into
drinking water and power is produced by diesel
generators. A nearby station only a short hike
away, the New Zealand (Kiwi) Scott Base, runs
wind turbines for their power use, with excess
being run to McMurdo. Spills of any non-
consumable liquids are taken seriously to not 
impact wildlife, leading to pee bottles being
important for any lengthy hikes. Conserving the
ecosystem is also important, with any non-native
species being banned from the continent (though 
humans, of course, are exempt). This means that 
since the 1980s sled dogs have not been allowed 
on the ice, for example.

McMurdoWinter.JPG
McMurdo Station with the sea ice in the 
foreground. Williams Airfield can be seen in 
the distance. Behind the ridge and wind turbines 
on the left is Scott Base. (P. Rejcek)

Wildlife
Birding brunch is a club I've joined here that 
meets on Sundays in the galley (currently in a
sarcastic manner, as the only living things 
currently above the ice are humans and seals).
Today, I learned that there are three prominent
types of birds in the area: the Adélie penguin, 
the Emperor penguin, and the skua. They will be 
arriving at the station as we get further into 
summer here. You all know of the penguin and how 
nice they are. The skua, on the other hand, is 
an infamous food scavenger. As summer approaches 
and the sea ice breaks, these birds will arrive 
and the skuas will dive on any food accessible 
to them (and long hair, I have heard). Large 
wildlife live here in the water, including seals 
and orcas. Additionally, small critters such as 
starfish and sea spiders thrive on the ocean 
floor.

Skua.jpg
A south polar skua in flight. (A. Bacchiochi)

Lifelife
While much of life here is similar to living in
a small mining town, there are a few stark 
differences: it's always cold and it's truly 
remote. Some features of the town include a 
single restaurant (the galley, which is open 
around the clock), two bars, a coffee house, 
various gyms such as a weight room, basketball
court, and climbing wall, along with a library. 
And that's it. Everything else has the purpose 
of either running the residential area or 
providing the needed scientific support. 
All cargo in and out of the station during 
the start and end of summer is moved via 
aircraft. Towards January, the aircraft are
supplemented by ships as the sea ice melts.

McMurdoAir.jpg
An aerial photo of McMurdo taken in the 
middle of summer. A US Coast Guard icebreaker
is shown in the center. (R. Piuk)

Work in the town occurs during town hours:
0730 to 1730 Monday to Saturday. This is when 
the majority of people here are working. Some 
departments must run around the clock, so they 
will work five days per week and twelve hours 
per day (e.g., galley, cargo, firehouse, etc.).
Currently, there are about 500 people on 
station. This number will reach close to 1,100 
as more flights are able to arrive. We've had 
a few cases of COVID on station as more people 
are showing up this last week, so even down here
we are not far enough removed from the virus. 
Internet is quite slow. Nothing too large in 
size can be accessed and even calling is 
difficult; the only way I was able to make a 
call off-continent was on a landline, which 
felt very old-school.

My week
Moving to myself specifically, I flew down to 
the ice last Saturday. It was on an Airbus A319,
which provided a really wonderful view of the 
ocean on the way down. One thing that truly 
surprised me was how quickly it turned from 
water to sea ice as we left New Zealand. The ice
is beautifully pristine and the transition from 
ocean to land is sudden and drastic.

SeaIce.jpg
Sea ice seen on the way to Antarctica.

You hear about Antarctica being a desert, but 
man, it sure is true. It is dry here. I've been
dealing with the worst chapped lips and dry nose
since arriving. Also, yesterday it was "snowing",
but it was actually just the wind blowing around
the already existing snow from the ground. The 
station gets 213 mm of precipitation yearly, on 
average. Compare this to the global average of 
of 990 mm and you'll see that this is small. 
I feel like I've been both eating and drinking 
water twice as much to overcome the cold and the
dryness of the continent.

My first week of work involved a lot of training
on equipment, such as loaders (big forklifts). 
We worked a few flights at the Phoenix Ice 
Runway, located about 19 miles/30 kilometers 
from the station on the Ross Ice Shelf. This 
shelf of ice is just a huge glacier the size of 
France that is sliding off of the continent. The 
shelf is several hundred meters thick, with 90% 
of it underneath the water. Some really big 
planes are able to land directly on the ice, 
where we upload and download the cargo on 
arriving and departing aircraft. There is some 
pretty cool equipment used to do the job. I'll 
describe with more detail what exactly I do in a 
future letter.

Phoenix.JPG
Yours truly at Phoenix airfield with a loader 
and a cargo transport vehicle in the background.

Thanks for reading.
With love,
Luke
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If you think that someone would be interested in learning 
about the Antarctic and what working there is like, please 
do forward this letter to them. 

If you would like to be removed from this newsletter, just 
email me and I can do so.

Lastly, if you have any questions about life, work, or 
anything else regarding Antarctica, send me an email and 
I can try to answer your question in the next letter. 
Thank you!